She-sheds for the Desert Cottage Garden

Looking to escape from the burning heat?  A small. she-shed at the corner of your lot is the ideal hideaway.  I added s small air-conditioner and a small refrigerator to mine and it now serves multiple purposes. We use it as a pool house, potting shed, plant shelter from heat and cold, snack depot for the pool area and last but not least extra storage for pool supplies, gardening supplies, gardening tools and plants.  

 I use my she-shed to start seedlings and new plants in the winter.

At the back of my she-shed, I enclosed another 6'x9' with bubble wrap to overwinter tender Brugmansia's and to start new plants.

I found a variety of Shed's on Pinterest that you might be interested in viewing.  I have taken some ideas from almost each of them. 

I have an assortment of watering cans, found at yard sales and I thought this was a neat idea of how to display them.   

I loved the color combination on this Shed. It inspired me to paint 

my She-shed door purple.

Clematis for the Southwest Cottage Garden

       Clematis are not as hard to grow as you may think. In the Southwest garden,         it takes more effort than in the eastern garden but it can be done. First, the             Clematis roots MUST be planted in the shade and be mulched heavily.  The         tops or growing vines must then be in the sun to bloom.  If you meet these           two criteria then you will have a successful growing clematis plant. 

 to Grow Clematis
Clematis Planting Info
Pruning Care of Clematis

For proper care of clematis, clematis vines prefer sunny locations (at least six hours of sun needed for blooming) but the soil should be kept cool. An easy way to accomplish this is by planting some type of ground cover or shallow-rooted perennial plants around the clematis. A 2-inch layer of mulch can also be incorporated to keep the roots cool and moist.

Growing clematis vines must be supported in some fashion as well. The type of support system is usually dependent on the variety grown. For instance, poles are acceptable choices for smaller growing clematis vines, which can range anywhere from 2 to 5 feet in height. Arbors may be more suitable for growing larger types, which can get 8 to 12 feet. Most varieties, however, do quite well growing along a trellis or fence.

Clematis vines are usually planted in fall or early spring, for the desert garden.

Clematis plants need plenty of space for adequate air flow as well as a rich, well-draining planting area. You should dig the hole large enough to accommodate the plant, with most recommendations suggesting at least a two foot depth of soil amended with compost prior to planting. It may also help to cut the plant back some before planting to lessen shock as it adapts to its new environment.

Tips for Clematis Care

Once established, care of clematis vines is minimal with the exception of watering. They should be watered about an inch or so weekly, and more deeply during dry spells. Mulch should be replenished each spring. In addition, be on the lookout for common problems affecting these plants. Clematis wilt can cause vines to suddenly collapse and die after their foliage and stems have blackened. Powdery mildew often affects plants with poor air circulation. Aphids and spider mites can be a problem as well.

Annual pruning may also be required to keep clematis plants looking their best. Pruning clematis helps plants remain both attractive and full of flowers. The type of clematis vine grown dictates when and how it should be pruned.

For example, early spring-blooming varieties should be pruned back as soon as possible following their blooming but before July, as they bud on previous season’s growth. Large-flowering types that bloom in mid spring should be cut back to the topmost buds in late winter/early spring. Late-blooming varieties should be pruned back about two or three feet in late winter/early spring.

Nothing is more satisfying than seeing your efforts pay off with a plant covered in flowers year after year! Clematis can be a part of any size garden and they live for very many years.  Since Clematis live up to 50 years or more, you should take the time to plant each one carefully.

Fall is the Time to Plant in the Southwest Garden

              

Fall is the best time of the year to plant in the Southwest Cottage garden. The temperatures are falling to a bearable level, the rains pick up, and the weeds are gone.  Now is the time to get your zone 9 gardens ready for fall planting. I have to admit I do a lot of my fall gardening in pots, where they not only provide fall and winter interest but offers a beautiful edible bounty by early spring. 

Fall has distinct planting benefits. Autumn's cooler air temperatures are easier on both plants and gardeners. The soil is still warm, allowing roots to grow until we experience a freeze.  

Preparation – Before you plant, you need to get the garden ready. If you are planting in the ground, be sure to add some horse manure or aged cow manure to give the soil extra nutrients.  I also inoculate the soil with mycorrhizae–myco means fungus and the suffix means root, so literally root fungi, a word used to indicate a symbiotic relationship between the two. Buy mycorrhizae to add to the planting bed especially around the roots of little plants. Since most of the zone 9b is dry, I add fertilizers to the soil that helps retain moisture. Besides the ones already mentioned you can add other nitrogen-rich additives such as rabbit manure, alfalfa, and cottonseed meal,  and for good vegetable and or flower production you also need phosphorus. I use rock phosphate. Also, don’t forget about the potassium. Potassium (or potash) helps plants use water. The best source of potassium for the organic garden is greensand. You can also add wood ash, but it is high in lime so it can lower your pH.

Planting: Don't overwater, but make sure the plants get at least 1 inch of water one time per week. If the temperatures stay hot, then water every day until cooler weather descends.

1. Vegetables: I usually grow Lettuce, spinach, radishes and collard greens and some kale and other greens with a short maturity time can be planted later in the season. Carrots are a must every year as they germinate quickly, and we do not have the usual pest that seems to harvest the root crops. Carrots taste sweeter when they're harvested after frost.

Perennials: In the long growing season of zone 9b the perennials get to monster size and need to be divided every season, and fall is the only time to do this successfully.

Peony, Irises, Echinacea, Shasta daisy, and mums are all best choices for hot, desert conditions. Geraniums are ideal for pots for winter blooming, but sadly go dormant or dead in the summer heat.

• Petunias are the perfect basket plant, they grow quickly and are healthy and fragrant at the same time.

• Spring  Bulbs:  I have tulips, daffodils, lilies, crocus, and several other varieties of spring bulbs that faithfully put on a grand show for me every year. Plant these in late October.

 Geraniums will perform best in pots for the fall and winter months. Bring them in if the temperatures dip down below 40 degrees. 

Stock is a cottage garden favorite and grows and blooms almost non-stop in the desert setting.

Nasturtium grows the best in the fall-winter months and will self-sow and bloom every year in the fall and winter.

Tree: Even though in zone 9b you can plant all year round, fall is a better time to plant trees. The love the cooler temperature to settle in and develop their roots.  The high heat of the summer months puts them into shock, and they don’t grow they just go into survival mode (as we humans also do).

Irises for the Desert Southwest

Every year glossy catalogs full of gorgeous flowers entice gardeners to try growing bulbs that aren't suited to their climate. Many tulips, for example, won't come back and bloom a second year. They just can't take the heat. Most fall bulbs come from Holland where the weather is cool and cloudy. Here in Las Vegas, the temperature can reach as high as 118 degrees and sunny days are the norm from March on. bulbs that originate from semi-arid and desert regions with seasonal rain, are naturals for Southwest gardens. Under the term “bulbs” are also plants that come from corms, rhizomes and tubers.

Irises grow from a rhizome — an elongated, swollen, underground stem and are among the easiest of perennials to grow in the desert Southwest. They require very little care for the beauty they give. There are many types of iris around the world, many of which can be planted in the desert Southwest. Of the many types of irises, bearded irises are some of the more common. In general, the bearded irises are native to the Mediterranean and near-desert areas. They grow to be anywhere from 15-28" tall except for the dwarf bearded iris, which grows between 5-15" tall. They grow in a variety of colors and can be used to brighten up any yard or garden.

The best time to plant bearded irises is in the late summer through early fall; however, irises are not particularly picky about planting time. Bearded irises, as well as other types of irises are very drought tolerant. Watering is only necessary under the most severe drought conditions. Irises will produce dramatic, beautiful blooms with minimal care, and are a very good plant choice for low or no maintenance gardens.

Bearded irises prefer a well-drained soil with a pH of 6.5-7. The soil does not need to be nutrient rich but adding phosphorus and other nutrients to the soil in the fall can be beneficial. In the winter, the iris can be mulched lightly to protect it from the weather and aid in weed control. Most bearded irises grow best in full sun; however, all of those "full sun" recommendations are made for gardeners who get half the sunshine we do. Shade makes it possible for bulbs to flourish despite our hot climate and helps their flowers last longer. Afternoon shade and shade from trees is especially helpful. As a general rule, the colder the climate where the bulbs come from, the more shade they need.

Bulbs best suited to the desert Southwest are summer dormant and grow during our cool mild winters. When they are actively growing, it is vital to provide regular watering and fertilizing, yet leaving them undisturbed in the soil.

During this period, energy for the following season’s growth and bloom is being directed to the plant’s leaves, stems, and roots. Any relocation of bulbs should be done only when they are dormant.

Organic matter such as coarse peat moss or wood mulch provides a slight acidifying effect and moisture-holding quality to the soil. In heavy soils, 1 to 2 inches of sand worked into the soil will improve drainage.

Successful bulb gardeners add a couple of teaspoons of phosphate per square foot. As a precaution against soil-borne insects, a granular application of a product called “Merit” may also be worked into the soil before planting.

Rather than follow the calendar, it is recommended that bulbs not be planted until day temperatures reliably drop into the low 80-degree range.

If planting into a bed, bulbs are best planted in clumps or groups rather than in rows. The depth of planting is most important, so carefully follow readily available bulb planting guides. As a general rule, it is recommended to plant bulbs at a depth of 2 to 3 times the thickness of the bulb.

After planting, immediately water thoroughly down to the bulb depth. Thereafter, water only frequently enough to maintain slight moisture around the bulbs. or wood chip mulch over the entire soil surface will conserve moisture, discourage weeds, and help regulate temperatures. When growth begins, water plants in the sun every seven to 10 days. For shaded bulbs, watering every two to three weeks will be sufficient.

Using a lower nitrogen fertilizer such as 16-20-0 (ammonium phosphate) twice a year will encourage healthy plants. After bulbs have finished blooming, reduce watering and allow the plants to dry. It is important not to remove leaves from the plant until they brown and die.