How to Grow Magnificient Irises

W hat I love most about August is the flower catalogs that come in the mail. My all-time favorite catalog is the ones with irises. It's a magical time when bearded irises unfurl their pencil-slim buds to reveal a kaleidoscope of color in spring. Once commonly called flags, these perennials flourish in USDA Zones 3-9, where winter temperatures dip below freezing and allow the plant to go dormant before next year's growth. Next to roses, the iris is my all-time favorite flower. They are fragrant and the blooms have an iridescent quality to them. A serious cottage garden must have irises.

Bearded iris is among the most elegant -- and easy to grow -- flowers of spring. Follow our tips for long-lasting, ever-multiplying blooms. Bearded irises are relatively easy garden plants to grow and will give good results with a minimum of care, but like all plants, the better the culture the more magnificent the display.
 

The following instructions are easy to implement and should lead to beautiful iris blooms year after year.

Planting Bearded Iris

Soil Preparation:
Iris will thrive in most well-drained garden soils. Planting on a slope or in raised beds helps ensure good drainage. If your soil is heavy, coarse sand or humus may be added to improve drainage. Gypsum is an excellent soil conditioner that can improve most clay soils. The ideal pH is 6.8 (slightly acidic), but Iris are tolerant in this regard. To adjust the pH of your soil, lime may be added to acidic soils or sulfur to alkaline soils. It is always best to have your soil analyzed before taking corrective measures.

When, Where and How to Plant Bearded Iris Rhizomes:

For best results, Iris should be planted in July, August or September. It's imperative that the roots of newly planted Iris be well-established before the growing season ends. In areas with hot summers and mild winters, September or October planting may be preferred.
Iris need at least a half day of sun. In extremely hot climates, some shade is beneficial, but in most climates Iris do best with at least 6 hours a day of full sun.  should be planted so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing downward in the soil.

 

Step (1) Build up a small mound of soil in the center of the planting hole.
Step (2) Center the rhizome on the soil mound and spread out the roots on either side.
Step (3) Firm the soil around the roots. Newly planted rhizomes should be watered thoroughly.

Be Patient -- Irises are perennials and require time to grow. New growth may be noticeable within 2-3 weeks and begins with a new center leaf in the fan. Depending upon the maturity of the rhizome and the geographical location, there may or may not be blooms the first Spring.

                 In very light soils or in extremely hot climates, covering the rhizome with 1 inch of soil may be desirable. Firm the soil around each rhizome and then water to help settle the soil. A common mistake is to plant Bearded Iris too deeply. Iris are generally planted 12 to 24 inches apart. Close planting gives an immediate effect, but closely planted Iris will need to be thinned often. Plants spaced further apart will need less frequent thinning. 

  

Watering Needs of Bearded Iris

Newly set Iris plants need moisture to help their root systems become established. Specific watering information depends on your climate and your soil, but keep in mind that deep watering at long intervals is better than more frequent shallow waterings. Once established, Iris normally don't need to be watered except in arid areas. Over-watering is a common error. 


Fertilizing Bearded Iris

Specific fertilizer recommendations depend on your soil type, but bone meal, superphosphate and 6-10-10 are all effective. A light application in the early spring and a second light application about a month after bloom will reward you with good growth and bloom. Avoid using anything high in nitrogen, as nitrogen encourages rot problems. The soil type for your area will determine your fertilizer needs. Superphosphate, or a well-balanced fertilizer with an N-P-K ratio of 10-10-10 or 5-10-10 are recommended. Avoid anything high in nitrogen as it encourages soft growth that is susceptible to disease. Provide a light application in early spring and again a month after bloom . Place fertilizer around rhizomes, not directly on them. Alfalfa pellets (without salt) are extremely beneficial when incorporated in the soil around newly planted irises. Do NOT use Feed and Weed preparations.

Dividing Clumps

When irises become crowded, usually every three to four years, bloom will decline. At this time, old clumps may be thinned by removing several divisions and leaving a portion of the clump in the ground. A better practice is to remove the entire clump, replenish the soil and replant a few large rhizomes.

 
 

 

 

Bloom Habits

Bearded Iris range from the small to the tall, with the shortest of them beginning to bloom as early as late March here in Oregon. The color spectacle continues into April with the emergence of the Median Bearded Iris, followed by the Tall Bearded Iris which begin to fade in early to mid-June. Bloom time for each variety lasts approximately two weeks, depending on the weather.
There are some Tall Bearded Iris that bloom early and some that bloom late, so try some of each to lengthen your season by a week or two. Consider some of the smaller bearded Iris, such as the Intermediate and Standard Dwarf Bearded Iris, as you can add a month to the beginning of your bloom season using these.
  

 Caring for Your Iris Beds

Keep your Iris beds clean and free of weeds and debris, allowing the tops of the rhizomes to bask in the sun. Bloom stalks should be cut off close to the base after all buds have finished blooming. Healthy green leaves should be left undisturbed, but diseased or brown leaves should be removed.

 

Some of my favorite Irises

  

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August Gardeners

         

 It is so darn hot in August (especially in Las Vegas) a gardener just does not want to get out and do anything, that’s fine for a while. I like to sit on the back porch, drink lemonade and peruse all the gardening magazines and plan my order for Irises, lilies, tulips and other spring bulbs. Now is the time to get those orders in.  In Las Vegas October is the time to plant new roses,  I also go online shopping for the best variety and price on roses. August is the month many online nurseries have their rose sales.

              Try to work out in your garden in the early morning when it is cool, below is a to do list   for the August gardener.

Watch your plants closely during these hot, summer days. A little dark sun scorch spot could develop on some leaves, the edges could become a bit yellow or brown and the foliage can begin to wilt. The trick here is to water before the signs actually show on the plants. Once a plant is wilted from dryness it can recover quickly from a good “drink” but it has been stressed and that is not a good thing. Insects and disease generally could attack a stressed plant as opposed to one that is healthy.

               Water when it is required and when you are able. Morning watering is said to be best as the plants have a chance to dry before lower evening temperatures can attract fungus. Evening watering is also acceptable, as the sun is not evaporating the surface moisture as it does when watering occurs in mid-day. In any case, don’t worry about it! Again, when watering is required, do it, regardless of the time of day.

                 While working in your garden, it is a good idea to gain some knowledge about insects in general and the variety of pollinators. Insects belong in our gardens. We would all be better off to learn to attract them than to spend the time and money that many gardeners do to repel them. A garden really wouldn’t be much of a garden without them. In themselves, insects are not “good” or “bad”, “pests” or “beneficial”. They are simply living their lives in an effort to survive and reproduce. They are, for the most part, simply “doing their thing” in our gardens. We love birds in our gardens (well, maybe, when they are not eating our berries or grapes) and most of our favorites eat insects. Thousands of insects (many that cannot be seen with the naked eye) are constantly recycling organic matter directly in the garden soil. Insects also carry out the bulk of the pollination of our flowers. True, certain plants reproduce without pollination but most flowers are the result of the insect’s work. The more diversified our gardens are planted, the more we can look forward to attracting and sheltering the myriad of insects that will keep our gardens somewhat in balance.

           August is a good time to plant for a fall harvest, especially in containers if you don’t have much room. Lettuce, salad greens, radishes, carrots, kale, spinach, broccoli, cauliflower and kohlrabi are all good candidates. Don’t forget fish fertilizer on seedlings twice a week. “Cut and come again” greens such as leaf lettuces, arugula, mustard, etc. will give you delicious mesclun all fall and into the winter. Since this is still the heat of the summer, seeds should be sown in a partly shaded spot so the soil doesn’t get too warm.

          Don’t forget Swiss chard. The “Bright Lights’ varieties will be delicious as the weather gets cooler and the many colors will look beautiful whether in containers or in garden borders. Harvesting this month should include raspberries, melons, tomatoes, squash, peppers, artichokes, onions, sweet corn, eggplant, beans, kohlrabi, strawberries and beets……WOW!

          Prune your herbs now if they are getting out of hand. Catnip, rosemary and basil especially so they don’t flower. Deadhead your perennials. Check your asparagus bed for weeds and mulch. Start planning for drip irrigation next year if you don’t have it installed. Remember, you can do a section at a time if the entire garden area seems overwhelming.

           Start thinking about fall lawn treatment. August 15th to September 15th is the best time to seed (or over-seed) your lawn. It wouldn’t hurt to fertilize roses now for fall blooming. Check your compost. It could use turning this month and make sure it is kept damp-not dried out.

          If you have space in the garden that is not going to be planted for a fall harvest, plant a cover crop such as buckwheat. Also, nemagone marigold seeds can be planted as a cover crop for next year’s tomatoes. They will bloom beautifully throughout the fall season until frost. You can let them stay in their bed all winter to decompose.